Our next adventure began with a tuk-tuk ride to the airport in the charming town of Luang Prabang, followed by a flight to Pakse, a serene city in Southern Laos. Nestled along the Mekong River, just north of Cambodia, Pakse is where the Mekong River intersects with the Xe Don River, creating the picturesque 4,000 Islands region. This tranquil city set the stage for an unforgettable journey through ancient ruins, breathtaking landscapes, and spiritual havens.

Pakse is more than just a gateway to the wonders of Southern Laos; it’s a destination brimming with laid-back charm and a hint of French colonial elegance. Our first day in Pakse was spent exploring the bustling morning market, where the aroma of freshly ground coffee mingled with the scents of exotic spices and ripe tropical fruits. This vibrant market is a sensory delight, offering a glimpse into the daily life and rich culture of the Lao people.

Our base camp was the Pakse Hotel, a beautifully restored colonial building located in the heart of the city. With its white facade, wooden shutters, and warm hospitality, the Pakse Hotel perfectly encapsulated the laid-back elegance of Lao culture. The lobby, adorned with local art and traditional Lao motifs, exuded a welcoming charm that immediately made us feel at ease.

The Pakse Hotel’s central location made it the ideal starting point for our explorations. Just a short walk away, we found the bustling Pakse Market, a lively hub where locals sell fresh produce, handmade crafts, and aromatic spices. Wandering through the market, we immersed ourselves in the vibrant atmosphere and sampled local delicacies.

Our first adventure was a guided tour to the Bolaven Plateau, a region known for its cool climate, verdant coffee plantations, and stunning waterfalls.

The journey through lush landscapes and traditional villages was a refreshing contrast to the warm, tropical climate of Pakse. We marveled at the cascading waters of Tad Fane and Tad Gneuang waterfalls, their thunderous splashes echoing through the dense jungle.

Tad Fane Falls.
Tad Gneuang Falls.

Returning to the Pakse Hotel felt like coming home after days of exploration. We ended our evenings at the Sky Bar, where we could relax and enjoy panoramic views of the city and the Mekong River. The gentle breeze and twinkling city lights provided the perfect backdrop for unwinding and reflecting on our adventures.

The Pakse Hotel boasts the only rooftop restaurant in the city, Le Panorama, which offers breathtaking views of the Mekong River and the surrounding cityscape. We indulged in delightful meals that featured an array of both Western and Lao dishes including traditional Lao delicacies.  During one meal, as depicted in the gallery below, we enjoyed a local tapas appetizer tray (calamari, eggrolls, bruschetta, and won-tons), Lap Kai (mined meat salad), Phat Phak Bong Phai Deng (stir-fried morning glory consisting of water spinach, garlic, chilies, with oyster and fish sauces), Lap Pah Mekong (fresh seafood and fresh veggies), Sticky Rice, Phat Thai Kai (flat noodle dish with chicken, chilis, and peanuts), and drinks for a grand total after tax of 555,000 kip or just $25 US Dollars.

Our breakfasts included an array of pastries, local sausages, amazing Laos coffee, and fruit so fresh the bananas were still attached to the tree limb, and sticky rice with mok pa (steamed fish in banana leaves).

We rented a motorbike and headed out of Pakse to Wat Phousalao, a tranquil temple complex perched atop a hill overlooking the Mekong River. Located just a short distance from the city, Wat Phousalao is one of Southern Laos’ hidden treasures, offering breathtaking views and a serene escape from the everyday hustle and bustle.

The climb to the temple, though steep, was a journey through beautifully carved naga (serpent) balustrades that guided us to the entrance. The temple itself is a stunning example of traditional Lao architecture, with intricately carved wooden doors, golden stupas, and a striking roof adorned with mythical creatures. The main attraction is the colossal golden Buddha statue, standing over 30 meters tall and radiating a sense of peace and tranquility.

We took a moment to sit in quiet reflection in one of the prayer halls, where the scent of incense and the gentle flicker of candles created a peaceful setting for contemplation. The monks, dressed in their saffron robes, moved gracefully through the temple, their presence adding to the sense of serenity that pervades Wat Phousalao, and my travel companion Wilai, paid merit to Buddha while I respectfully watched; before riding back to the city.

Biking in Pakse.

Another day trip took us to the ancient temple complex of Vat Phou, a UNESCO World Heritage site that offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s rich history and spiritual traditions. Located on the slopes of Mount Phu Kao, Vat Phou is one of the oldest temples in Laos, originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, later becoming a center for Theravada Buddhism.

As we explored the complex, we were captivated by the grandeur of the lower terrace, with its serene barays (reservoirs) reflecting the surrounding mountains and sky. The middle terrace revealed impressive sandstone structures and intricate carvings depicting scenes from Hindu mythology, showcasing the craftsmanship of the ancient Khmer builders.

Reaching the upper terrace, the spiritual heart of Vat Phou, we encountered a sanctuary featuring a central shrine and statues of Buddha. The natural spring flowing from the mountain, believed to possess healing properties, added to the mystical ambiance of the site.

Vat Phou.

Our adventure in Southern Laos was an unforgettable journey through serene landscapes, ancient temples, and vibrant markets. From the charming city of Pakse to the hidden treasures of Wat Phousalao and the mystical allure of Vat Phou, every moment was filled with discovery, spirituality, and awe-inspiring beauty. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or an adventurer at heart, the wonders of Southern Laos await, promising a journey you’ll cherish forever. By immersing yourself in the rich culture and breathtaking landscapes of Southern Laos, you’ll discover a world of beauty and tranquility that will linger in your heart long after the journey ends.


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